Lost in Translation

I am doing very well but really need to make a move on learning some more Portuguese. I have a little language book that has served me well in a few cases, but in all honesty my efforts have been pretty weak. Some key moments -

• Figuring out how to transfer a large sum of money into someone else´s bank account - that someone booked some accommodation for me and others - with no English speaking tellers. Depositar is my new favorite verb.
• Having conversations with Nelsinho, one of my hosts, on the phone, that involve him saying only three English words: "Katie! Please...please...please...please" and "calm-calm-calm-calm." Hilarious.
  
• Figuring out how to successfully explain where I´m going to seven different non-English speaking taxi drivers in the past two days - in a city where taking taxis ain´t the safest thing you can be doing!

Had an awesome time with one of these cabbies yesterday. Was on my way home from a rainy day of shopping in Ipanema and ended up in the taxi of this older man - friendly, grandfatherly type. Neither of us spoke a lick of the other´s respective language. But we managed to speak of many things. (Or, rather, he did and I managed to vaguely follow.) He asked what hotel he had just picked me up from, and I eventually understood and was able to answer him. Now at this point he had turned around a few times while driving, and I was getting nervous about his attention to the road. Maybe he sensed this?...because he immediately started making jokes about crazy drivers, going "vroom vroom vroom!" So funny. He then wanted to know whether I was American or English - and was relieved to know that I wasn´t English (or French) because they are [and then he sticks up his nose]. We get a good laugh together, and now he´s on a roll - wants to see what else he can say that I will understand - and so he starts reciting the names of singers and bands: "Ray Charles!" - "Yes, yes!" We both nod and laugh. "Stevie Wonder!" "Yup, he´s great too!" We both nod and laugh. "Pat Ben-e-tar!" "Hahahaha!" This is so cute. "The BeeGees!" At this point I´m dying laughing. He proceeded to insert a story about some sort of familial connection he has with one of the Brothers Gibb. He then returned to the band game for another ten minutes. It was so awesome.

I´m having a phenomenal time - jam packed itinerary as you can see. Wonderful sightseeing today in Santa Teresa, a semi-dangerous hilly artist community - was glad I was with a private tour guide, Martha. The colonial architecture downtown was beautiful. Tonight: time for some samba dancing!

Kisses (one on each cheek). Beijos, Katarina

Venturing Out Solo!

Hello! Things are great. Have made much progress since yesterday. Found a working ATM (they don´t all have the Visa logo), bought a cell phone, figured out the basics despite the fact that all of the menus and recordings are in Portuguese...also did some networking on asmallworld and couchsurfers to see what´s going on this week. Made a short list of what I want to do - explore Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana, Lapa, and Santa Theresa...hike up to Sugar Loaf and take a tram up to Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado...go hang gliding, take a favela tour, and go see a soccer game. It´s raining today and I am on my own (yikes!) so I am going to stick with the basics and start with bikini shopping in Ipanema. So excited! Then Nora Ammar, from Brown, and friends arrive tonight at 6pm. I got in touch with my aunt´s friend´s daughter Rafaela yesterday - I am excited to meet her as well!

Yesterday afternoon was lovely - Pedro took me to his friend´s birthday party in the Lagoa neighborhood. I had such a great time! His friends are incredibly lively and fun. Many had suggestions for places to visit and things to do. The view from this apartment was stunning - it looked out onto the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and the mountains. The food was fantastic (and professionally prepared) - roasted chicken, rice, beans, butternut squash, this roasted grain stuff that was delicious, and some kind of green vegetable that was really good too. Laura, the host, kept refilling my champagne to the point where I had five glasses - whee!

OK - here I go. xoxo

Holy WOW Brazil!

YES!!!

This rocks. First of all, I am safe and sound. My aunt´s friend´s friend´s friend Pedro picked me up at the international airport in Rio last night at 1:00 AM. I was welcomed with a big smile, kiss on both cheeks, and help with my bags (thank goodness). Before that, during the bag waiting process, two people started talking to me in Portuguese, thinking I was Brazilian. Great sign. Back to 1:30 AM. Called my parents briefly and then went straight from airport to a "rehearsal" ... for one of the best samba schools in Rio´s Carnaval performance. YES!!! "Rehearsal" means 1000 people dancing in a breezy, decorated, brightly lit gymnasium with 40 or 50 people on stage playing drums and another 10 people singing and playing other instruments. And lots of capirinhas! The school is called Unidos da Tijuca. We went up to one of the balconies first, to watch, and then we went into the crowd. They debuted their 2008 anthem song which had everyone singing and dancing and jumping!! I started to learn the dance, but not the words. That will be next. The song basically talks about people collecting things...and how this club wants to "collect" another "10" from the judges (as Carnaval is a celebration but also a competition for all of the best samba schools in Rio). I won´t be in Rio for Carnaval, and so I am so glad I got to participate now! There was a really human moment when two of the main dancers from the samba school were dancing with the school´s flag - she was wearing a silver sparkly tube top and royal blue skirt, with this belt hoister thing that her partner had to adjust in the middle of the dance, and no one in the crowd surrounding them cared or noticed. Some observations: I saw maybe two cameras the entire night. People are not concerned with taking pictures - they are too busy enjoying themselves. Also - everyone is dressed in bright colors, especially yellow. Visually, this puts you in a great mood. Also - as long as I don´t open my mouth, people think I am Brazilian. This night was such a fantastic welcome to Brazil.

Pedro then drove me through Ipanema and Leblon, and we checked out the bar scene for a sec. Different crowd than the samba party - these people seemed wealthier - but everyone is smiling. Went home as passed out from 5AM to 1PM. About to go begin the day! The sun is shining! Thinking about you all - I love you.

kisses, Katie

I'm doin it

Hello! First post! In the Atlanta airport. Brought too much stuff. I look really badass with my 5 foot long backpack plus a duffel bag on each shoulder though. When I assembled myself in that configuration, I felt really strong. At the same time, I feel like a total priss. Need to get less dependent on stuff - a big goal of this trip. It was difficult to balance a very varied itinerary plus my precautious nature, i.e. "I better bring five bottles of sunblock because they might not have SPF 50 in Brazil..." (I ended up with two bottles of sunblock.) I will throw things away if necessary. Don't need much. Have my head, and my heart. Both are pretty good. Both will get better.

kisses, Katie

Itinerary

Friday, January 18th, 2008

• Depart Los Angeles, CA at 11:50 PM on Delta Flight 806, service to Atlanta, GA.

Saturday, January 19th, 2008

• Arrive in Atlanta, GA at 6:57 AM.
• Depart Atlanta, GA at 11:30 AM on Delta Flight 169, service to Rio de Janeiro/Galeao, Brazil.

Sunday, January 20th, 2008

• Arrive in Rio de Janeiro/Galeao, Brazil at 12:05 AM.
• Meet Pedro Trengrouse, friend of Nelsinho Santos, at the airport; will be staying at Pedro's house.
• Go straight to Carnaval rehearsal party of the Unidos da Tijuca!
  
• Contact Rafaela Miranda Rocha, daughter of Paula Miranda. She lives in Jardim Botanico.
• Attend Pedro´s friend´s birthday party in the Lagoa district - beautiful view from the balcony of Sugar Loaf!
  

Monday, January 21st, 2008

• Transfer money to Andre Rappa for accommodation in Salvador.
• Find an açai smoothie.
  
• Walk around Ipanema and Leblon. Go bikini shopping on Garcia DÁvila and R Nascimento Silva in Ipanema.
  
• Stop by the hotel of Nora Ammar, Sarah Marks, and friends from New York. They are staying at the Hotel Caesar Park Ipanema.
• Meet the girls after dinner at Empório in Ipanema for drinks.
  

Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008

• Meet Nora, Sarah, Samantha, and Crystal for lunch at 1:00 PM at Sobrenatural (Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 434) in Santa Theresa.
  
• Explore Santa Theresa with Martha - Guide in Rio at 2:00 PM.
  
• Go up to Corcovado to see Christ the Redeemer.
• Explore Centro, the Business District.
  
• Go out for samba dancing in Lapa: Rio Scenarium or Sacrilegio.
  

Wednesday, January 23rd, 2008

• Finish transfering money to Andre Rappa for accomodation in Salvador.
• Explore Copacanbana: buy bikinis, have lunch at the Copacabana Palace Hotel.
  
• Attend soccer game at Maracanã stadium - Fluminense v. Duque de Caxias. Pick up is at 5:30 PM at a hostel called Stone of the Beach, Barata Ribeiro 111, one block from Arcoverde Metro Station in Copacabana. Bring R$65 in cash.
  

Thursday, January 24th, 2008

• Take a favela tour - meet at the Copacabana Palace Hotel at 9AM. Look for a white jeep. Bring R$65R in cash.
  
• Take the subway to Lapa and explore.
• After 4:00 PM, buy a ticket for Coachella.
• Have dinner with Rafaela Miranda Rocha.
• Party at 69 and Le Boy/La Girl with Natasha from asmallworld and Victor, Gabi, Ricardo and friends.
  

Friday, January 25th, 2008

• Go hang gliding with Chico from Pedra Bonita Mountain. They will pick me up at the apartment in Flamengo and 11:00 AM. R$240.
  
• Go to the beach! At Ipanema, hang out at the big palm tree between Posto 9 and Posto 10. Get a coco. Do some more window shopping.
  
• Have dinner at Sushi House in Ipanema with Pedro, Clarice from asmallworld, Juliana and their Italian friends.
  
• Go samba dancing at Lapa 40 Graus and walk around Lapa at night - holy street party!
  

Saturday, January 26th, 2008

• Have lunch in Ipanema with Pedro, his aunt Cristina, and his great-aunt Irene. See Irene´s apartment and then check out a Brazilian record store.
  
• Pack.
  
• Go to a Jorge Ben Jor concert - Brazilian funky.
  

Sunday, January 27th, 2008

• Depart Rio de Janeiro/Galeao, Brazil at 9:00 AM on Tam Meridion Flight JJ3536, with service to Fortaleza, Brazil.
• Arrive in Fortaleza, Brazil at 11:10 AM.
• Staying in a single room at Hostel Atalaia in the neighborhood of Praia de Iracema.
  
• Contact Josbertini and Afonso, friends of Nelsinho Santos.

Monday, January 28th, 2008

• Make plans to go to Jericoacoara.
• Go to the beach.
• Party and dance to forró at the Pirata Bar, next door to my hostel, which according to multiple sources is the liveliest Monday night in Brazil!

Tuesday, January 29th, 2008

• Depart at 8:20 AM for Jericoacoara - pick up is at my hotel and arranged by Oásis Brasil.
• Arrive in Jericoacoara at around 3:00 PM and hit the beach.
• Accomodation is at Pousada Recanto do Barão.
• Confirm place on return bus tomorrow through Redenção at 88-3669-2349.

Wednesday, January 30th, 2008

• Spend all day on the beach and playing in the dunes at Jericoacoara.
• Return back to Fortaleza on the 10:30 PM overnight bus with Redenção, R$35,50.

Thursday, January 31st, 2008

• Arrive back at Hotel Atalaia early in the morning - shower and pack.
• Depart Fortaleza, Brazil at 3:00 PM on Tam Meridion Flight JJ8006, with service to Salvador, Brazil.
• Arrive in Salvador, Brazil at 4:45 PM.
• Meet up with Nelsinho Santos, Cesar Macedo, Betanea Rosa de Assis, Andre Rappa and friends.
• Accommodation is at The Plaza Residence Service, room 301, in Salvador, Brazil.
• Contact Vinicius, Nelsinho´s friend, about Uruguay and Argentina itinerary.
• Carnaval begins!

Friday, February 1st, 2008

• Carnaval - Camarote Nana

Saturday, February 2nd, 2008

• Carnaval - Camarote Salvador

Sunday, February 3rd, 2008

• Dance in the Balada bloco with Jammil performing

Monday, February 4th, 2008

• Dance in the Me Abraça bloco with Asa de Aguia performing

Tuesday, February 8th, 2008

• Carnaval - Camarote Reina
  

Wednesday, February 9th, 2008

• Depart Salvador for Morro de São Paulo, an island that is also in Bahia state, Brazil. Will be accompanied by Nelsinho and Betânea.
  
• Sleep!!!
  

Sunday, February 10th, 2008

• Depart Morro on 10:00 AM fly to Salvador airport.
  
• Depart Salvador, Brazil at 2:10 PM on Tam Meridion Flight JJ3453, with service to Belo Horizonte, Brazil.
• Arrive in Belo Horizonte, Brazil at 4:40 PM.
• Accommodation is with Nelsinho Santos and family, at his house.
• Dinner with Minister Helio Costa and family.

Monday, February 11th, 2008

• Lunch and shopping with Betânea and Patricia.
  

Tuesday, February 12th, 2008

• Visit nearby historical city of Ouro Preto, also in Minas Gerais state, Brazil.
  

Wednesday, February 13th, 2008

• Sightseeing in Ouro Preto and relaxing in my gorgeous room with a view...
  

Thursday, February 14th, 2008

• Return to Belo Horizonte. Bar night with Betânea, Luciana, Patricia, Nelsinho, et al!

Friday, February 15th, 2008

• Fly to Sao Paulo to stay with Claudinha. Depart BH-Confins at 10:55 AM on Gol flight #1263, arriving in SP-Congonhas at 12:15 PM. Pay Claudinha back for the fare. Take a radio taxi to Claudinha´s house and call her on the way.
• Lunch and window shopping in Iguatemi Mall.
• Travel to Claudia´s beach house in Barra do Sahy, two hours north of Sao Paulo. Beach weekend!
  

Monday, February 18th, 2008

• Back in Sao Paulo. Shopping etc ;)
  

Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

• Travel to Iguaçu Falls. Depart Sao Paulo-Congonhas at 10;30 AM on Gol Airlines Flight #1224, arriving in Curitiba at 11;20 AM.
• Depart Curitiba at 12;20 PM on Gol Airlines Flight #1850, arriving in Foz do Iguacu at 1;30 PM.
• Staying at El Guembe Hostel & Pousada.
  
• At the airport, figure out how to pay for my flight to Buenos Aires - confirmation PSEVSF.
• Full Moon Tour of the Falls at 9:30 PM. Total Lunar Eclipse! Partial eclipse begins at 11:43 PM, total eclipse begins at 1:01 AM, Mid eclipse occurs at 1:26 AM, total eclipse ends at 1:51 AM, partial eclipse ends at 3:09 AM.
  

Thursday, February 23rd, 2008

• Tour of the falls with Iguazu Jungle Explorer. Pickup at 9:15 AM at the hostel. Great Adventure Tour begins at 10:00 AM, followed by the Ecological Tour afterwards.
  
• Do some hiking around the park.
  

Friday, February 22nd, 2008

• Fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina on Aerolineas Argentinas Flight #2725, departing at 1:00 PM from Iguazu - Cataratas and arriving at 2:50 PM at Buenos Aires - Jorge Newbury.
• Staying at Che Lagarto in Montserrat.
• Contact Gordo, friend of Maru Eugenia Gonzalez, friend of Dino LaCapra.

Saturday, February 23rd, 2008

• Explore the Microcentro.
• Take a yoga class!
• Have dinner with Henry, Julie and Harris, who I met in Morro, at a resturant called Domingo in Palermo Hollywood. Afterwards, bar-hopping!

Sunday, February 24th, 2008

• Take a morning run across the river in Puerto Madero.
• Explore the San Telmo market.
• Watch the street tango outside El Balcon.
• Contact Dan Richter, friend of Alex Rose.
  

Monday, February 24th, 2008

• Shopping in Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.
• Lunch plans with Lidia Pefaur, friend of Dino.
• Take a look at the Tango Hostel Inn to possibly relocate.
• Dinner and tango show at El Querandi.

Tuesday, February 25th, 2008

• Relocate to the Tango Backpackers Hostel Inn.
• Lunch with Natasha Primak, friend of Dino, at around 3PM.
• Buy Alex three pairs of boxers, size medium, at Bolivia in the Palermo District. See additional NY Times article.
• Contact Meagan Palatino´s friend David Shersher.
• Dinner with Damian and Martin, friends of Maru, friend of Dino, at La Brigada in San Telmo.

Wednesday, February 26th, 2008

• Find the Bolivian consulate.
• Find Say Hueque tour company regarding Patagonia.
• Explore Recoleta.
• Shopping on Florida.
• Explore La Boca and take the bus home.

Thursday, February 27th, 2008

• Watch the Mother´s protest at the Plaza de Mayo.
• Possible party at Sacramento, El Salvador 5729.
• Contact Peter Miraglia's aunt and uncle.
• Spanish classes at IBL?

Friday, February 28th, 2008

• Possible ASW party

Saturday, March 1st, 2008

• La Feria de Mataderos

March 5th, 2008

• Uruguay: Montevideo and Punta del Este with Maru Eugenia Gonzalez, friend of Dino LaCapra. Nightclub opening, big party.
  

Mid March, 2008

• Patagonia. Contact Courtney, friend of Mitch Goodman. She will be in el calafate, el chalten, puerto natales, torres del paine, punta arenas, ushuiaia.

Late March, 2008

• Tash arrives in Santiago on March 24th! 5:00 AM.
• Northern Chile and Northern Argentina.

Mid April, 2008

• Peru. Contact Samantha Cramer, friend of Rachel Reynolds and Alex Rose. Also, Maru Eugenia Gonzalez has a friend in Lima.

Wednesday, April 23rd, 2008

• Depart Rio de Janeiro/Galeao, Brazil at 6:55 PM on Continental Flight 92, with service to Houston/Intercont, TX.

Thursday, April 24th, 2008

• Arrive in Houston/Intercont, TX at 5:20 AM.
• Depart Houston/Intercont, TX at 7:35 AM on Continental Flight 495, with service to Los Angeles, CA.
• Arrive in Los Angeles, CA at 9:15 AM.