Friday, February 1, 2008

Into the Wild

The bus ride back to Fortaleza from Jericoacoara was wild! When I arrived at the "bus station" (understatement) in the pitch dark I met Kelly and Lou from San Francisco - I had no idea that there were other Americans around. They helped me onto the open air bus with gates as doors. We sat squished between our luggage when the lights went out, and off we went on a bumpy one hour ride through the sand dunes. We crossed over streams and rocked our way through the sand - the ocean was thrashing around 30 feet to the left. The girl sitting to my right had a head scarf on that was billowing in the wind, and with that image, all of a sudden it seemed like we were travelers from a different time, riding through the night in a covered wagon, or in a carriage pulled by horses...at one point we pulled to a screeching halt because there was a herd of wild cows blocking the road and surrounding us on either side.

I spent ´part of the ride in silence and observation, and the rest in conversation with Kelly and Lou. I was asking them where they had been, and where they were going. They were asking me the same. I realized that this kind of exchange is how travelers´ tales have gotten passed along over the ages - in dark taverns, while sharing a wagon through the night, while riding the same bus. On a human level we do the same thing that travelers did many years ago, before there were guide books and the internet - we ask questions, share stories, share advice, go where the wind takes us, and wish each other well. Kelly was telling me about visiting Jericoacoara 12 years ago when she was doing her solo trip through South America - just like me. The village was much smaller back then, and also Rio was just as dangerous - she recounted being held at gun point while riding a taxi. I felt invigorated by how strong and brave I was in Rio, and about how brave I feel now. All of this with the ocean waves crashing to the left, and the open fields and dunes lit up by lightning as far as the eye can see to the right, with the cows in the middle of it all. The best part is that I love where I was coming from and I know that I will love where I am going - CARNAVAL!!! Stay tuned...beijos, K

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